I sat down during my lunch break yesterday and wrote down all of the steps for the next few dresses and petticoats. It’s a little terrifying, especially when some of the steps are more vague and are actually comprised of multiple steps themselves. At the very least, I’ve made it to the last half of the project!

Just keep sewing, just keep sewing….

*Progress update 8/3/11*

Petticoat Instructions (White cotton, silver china silk, gold silk satin)

  1. Cut 6 base panels (60″ waist, 6 yard hem) [white, silver, gold]
  2. Cut ruffle pieces (min 12 yards). [white, silver, gold]
  3. Overlock Pink base pieces [white, silver, gold]
  4. Sew base pieces together, leaving a small gap int he back seam at the top. [white, silver, gold]
  5. Cut rectangular waistband and attach to base. [white, silver, gold]
  6. Overlock ruffle pieces and sew together. [white, silver, gold]
  7. Hem ruffle edges. Embroider if desired. [white, silver, gold]
  8. Hand gather ruffles and attach to base at desired length. [white, silver, gold]
  9. Thread shoelace through drawstring. [white, silver, gold]
August – Cosmos Gown
  1. Skirt
    1. Pleat
    2. Sew pleats down
    3. Cut waistband, sew up sides, turn
    4. Sew pleats to waistband
    5. Sew up back seam
    6. Hem
    7. Modesty panel
    8. Skirt hooks
  2. Bodice
    1. Cut canvas from pattern, fit
    2. Cut silk from canvas
    3. Attach boning channels to canvas
    4. Sew silk/canvas pieces together, leaving side seams open.  Understitch.
    5. Sew side seams. Overlock, pink, or seam bind inside.
    6. Grommet
    7. Shoulder straps and elastic
  3. Bertha
    1. Gold with snaps
    2. Silver with snaps
September – Halloween Gown
  1. Bodice
    1. Cut bodice pieces in canvas and silk.
    2. Sew canvas pieces together, but don’t attach side pieces together. Same for silk pieces.
    3. Attach boning channels to canvas pieces on front and center back.
    4. For front pieces, sew canvas to silk along top and bottom edges, leaving sides open. Understitch edges.
    5. For back pieces, sew canvas to silk along top, bottom, and center back edges, leaving sides open. Understitch edges.
    6. Pin front and back pieces together at side to check fit. Once satisfied, sew front and back pieces together. Pink, overlock, or seam bind inside raw edges.
    7. Insert grommets along center back.
    8. Cut shoulder straps from silk and sew elastic channel along the very top edge of the strap. Thread elastic and baste or pin one side of it down.
    9. Pin or baste should straps to front and back pieces and adjust elastic and straps as needed until the correct fit is achieved.
    10. Sew elastic down and attach shoulder straps to the bodice.
    11. Attach bertha to bodice.
    12. Attach modesty panel to bodice.
    13. Find lace for bodice.
  2. Skirt
    1. Cut base panels for skirt (use petticoat base?). Overlock edges, sew pieces together. Leave small gap in the back.
    2. Cut bottom ruffle pieces. Overlock and hem, attach to bottom of base piece at desired height.
    3. Cut first (middle) tier of swags. Overlock edges, sew pieces together, gather swags to desired height. Attach to base piece at desired height.
    4. Repeat Step 4 for 2nd set of swags (top), attaching to base piece along the top edge.
    5. Cut waistband and attach to skirt.
    6. Attach modesty panel to skirt.
    7. Attach hooks and eyes to waistband.
October – Dalek Day Dress
  1. Test skirt
    1. Pleat test skirt in muslin. Min 8 yards. Stacked box pleats to 24″ waist but with extra room in the back for overlap. 6 box pleats? Two front, two side, two back.
    2. Determine top and bottom width and length for ball base panels. Cut from silk. Mark each panel into square sections for balls, getting progressively larger down the panel.
  2. Test balls
    1. Test ball pleating in muslin.
      1. Start with smaller square that will fit to base panel.
      2. Cut 2nd square larger depending on how big the ball needs to be.
      3. Pleat at each side until large square would fit onto small square.
      4. Sew down three edges.
      5. Stuff through opening to desired puffiness.
      6. Sew last edge closed.
    2. Cut all square pieces from silk.
    3. Create and stuff balls, setting each size progression aside.
    4. Attach balls to ball base panels.
  3. Skirt
    1. Test pleat the silk dupioni until it is exactly as intended. Mark down pleating pattern if needed. Distinctly mark where ball base panels will attach to skirt.
    2. Unpleat skirt and attach ball base panels. Make sure to sew a few inches below the top edge to allow for the waistband and bodice overlap.
    3. Repleat silk.
    4. Sew pleats down.
    5. Cut silk and canvas waistband (one layer silk, one layer canvas front and back). Cut a few inches longer than necessary to allow for overlap.
    6. Sew waistband side seams, turn.
    7. Attach skirt to waistband, going over the pleats multiple times to reinforce. Use heavy duty thread.
    8. Sew skirt up the back seam.
    9. Hem.
    10. Insert modesty panel.
    11. Attach skirt hooks.
  4. Day Dress Bodice
    1. Cut bolero and vest combo pattern from canvas and silk with pagoda (?) sleeves. Possibly add this front panel for lacing.
    2. Cut lacing panel from plain canvas or heavy duty cotton. Simple rectangular pieces (?) with grommets down the front. Will be used to lace the entire bodice closed and keep the front flat with no stress on snaps.
    3. Cut vest from plain black silk taffeta/dupioni. Attach to canvas pieces, keeping in mind it will overlap to snap in the front. Understitch pieces. Baste vest front pieces to lacing panel pieces.
    4. Cut bodice back and bolero front from canvas and gold silk. Sew bolero back pieces together and attach at the sides to all three layers of the front pieces. Pink, overlock, or seambind on the inside.
    5. Add gold/black cotton ruffles to neckline.Trim bolero in black (????).
  5. Sleeves
    1. Cut sleeves from gold silk and trim??
    2. Cut lining from black.
    3. Sew lining and gold right sides together. Turn.
    4. Attach to bolero armholes
  6. Create black cotton sleeve inserts.
    1. Cut sleeve body. Overlock edges. Do not sew up seam yet.
    2. Cut cuffs. Sew cuffs at sides.
    3. Gather sleeve body into flat cuff.
    4. Insert lace into other cuff opening.
    5. Sew up sleeve seam.
    6. Attach hooks and eyes to cuffs.
  7. Ball Gown Bodice
    1. ???
November – Red and Gold Plaid Dress
  1. Skirt
    1. Cut panels of red and plaid. Red base with plaid insert or plaid base with red inserts?
    2. Overlock panels if needed.
    3. Sew panels together.
    4. Pleat skirt cheerleader style.
    5. Sew down pleats.
    6. Cut waistband, sewing up sides and turning.
    7. Sew pleats to waistband.
    8. Sew up back seam.
    9. Insert modesty panel.
    10. Insert skirt hooks.
  2. Day Dress Bodice
    1. Vest and bolero style?
  3. Ball Gown Bodice
    1. If plaid inserts, cut center front, sides, and center back panels to V-shaped insert of plaid with body in red at the places in skirt where plaid inserts sit.
  4. Bertha?
  5. Extra fabric
    1. Plaid bow on bonnet for Dickens.
    2. Plaid ribbon for hair for dancing.
    3. Reticule
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