Man, that was a lot of sewing this weekend. Not that I crossed a great deal off my list, but the things I did took for-evar.

What I thought would be a quick fitting of the bodice turned into an unhappy surprise to find out I’d made it too big. Not only a little too big, but 1.5″ too big on each side. How the hell did that happen? Luckily, I was able to still match up the stripes and it fits properly! Yay! Sadly, no pictures of the fitting since I was in the zone and needed to crank the next part out so I could move on.

This allowed me to fit the shoulder straps as well, which are a completely separate part of the bodice and also meant cutting off about 6″ from the bodice straps to accommodate the new ones. The reason I put on separate straps is so I can thread elastic through it like a casing, which in turn allows me to lift my arms over my head (a must). For those of you cringing at the idea of elastic shoulder straps, I assure you they look perfectly fine and even add a bit of ruffle if the strap is wide enough and you anchor the elastic along the top of the strap.

The only thing left for the bodice is the sleeves, which I’m still not sure if I want, and the modesty panel in the back because, as my luck would have it, I took in the bodice just a little too much and I’d be damned before I redid those side seams again.

The underskirt was hemmed and seamed and just needs skirt hooks. The waistband came out shorter than I wanted, but still perfectly serviceable. My pleats came out great and every one of htem is stacked three high. The deepest pleats at the center front are 4″ deep and the shortest ones at the center middles are 3″. I didn’t measure the hem after I put in the last panel, but it’s probably a bit over 8 yards. Thankfully I didn’t need to line it and it spins just fine.

I scraped the old skirt I planned for the underskirt and just cut 4 new panels. The tops are around 20″ and the bottoms are around 40″. I’m using the other side the of the fabric for this so it’ll stand out more. Panels sewn together, hemmed, and the drawstring channels sewn down as well. I measured the bottom to find that I needed about 5 yards of finished knife pleats to line the bottom, so that was the next step before I could pleat the waist down.


15 yards of fabric overlocked on both ends, turned on one end, and knifepleated to 1″ pleats. Man was I tried of pleating after that. By the time I started sewing these onto the hem of the overskirt, I didn’t even care that the backs of some of the pleats were messed up, I just wanted that sucker done.

Well, I’ve since pleated the waist to the right measurement and need to make and attach the waistband and skirt hooks. And then I’m done. Like, really done. I’ll probably crank those bits out tonight so I can start pondering the June project. In fact, I probably should have been doing that rather than typing up this post, but I just couldn’t help myself.

Hard to believe I’ve really been at this for a full 5 months!

Bodice:
-Cut the outer fabric.
-Sew the front and side pieces of each section together. Don’t connect the side pieces.
-Attach boning channels as needed to canvas.
-Sew the front/canvas pieces together at outer, top, and bottom edge, leaving sides open. Turn. Sew the raw edges closed or just overlock them.
-Sew front/back pieces together at sides.
-Grommet.
-Shoulder Straps
-Sleeves?
-Try on and cry/scream/cheer about how terrible/crooked/painful the stripes look.

Underskirt
-Cut the remaining panels.
-Overlock any inside raw edges, sew all panels together.
-Overlock and hem bottom edge.
-Pleat, sew down pleats.
-Make waistband. Attach pleats to waistband.
-Skirt hooks!
-Take a spin break.
Overskirt
-Take existing skirt apart.
-Recut pieces to fit the new waistband. Adjust and sew the drawstring channels for the swags..
-Recut waistband.
-Attach skirt to waistband.
-Skirt hooks!
-Take another spin break.
Knifepleats – DONE!
-Cut the horizontal length of fabric into multiple lengths, sew together.
-Hem until eyes go blurry.
-Pleat until there are no more pins. Possibly need to buy more pins. Keep pleating.
-Attach to underskirt.
Bertha
-This might be thinking a little far ahead…

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